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Short term projects for the 4Runner:
Well, I had the truck running great for a few months. Then I took
it wheeling, and it started missing. Still had power at full throttle,
but low throttle it was rough. And it didn't want to start without a
few rounds of starting fluid. One day when I wanted to go wheeling
again, I tried to fire it up. After a few rounds with some gasoline in
the throttle body, I managed to get it started. Came back a few
minutes later and fuel was pouring down the block! Great. Upon
inspection I noticed pools of fuel around one of the fuel injectors.
Great. I guess its leaking because I forgot to use Vaseline upon
installation of the new o-rings. My bad.
Well, I've had it. I'm done with this engine. I cant bear to
tear it back down to the injectors again. So, I'm going to swap in a 350 V8
from a Blazer I bought for cheap. Already has headers, Edelbrock
intake and 4 barrel carb. Ready to go. I just need to buy
the Advance Adapters bellhousing to mate my 5 speed trans to the Chevy
motor. Stay tuned for more info.
UPDATE 01/12/09
The V8 swap is mostly done and on the road. I still have a bunch of
odds and ends to tie up, but its drivable. I am currently working on
getting my power steering functional, and then I'll hit the trails.
Cant wait!
You can check out the details of my V8 swap under the "performance"
section
UPDATE 8-7-08
V8 swap is well underway. Keep up with progress here...
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=1095741&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=14&fpart=1
Motor:
Truck was running great for a while. Then all of the sudden, it
started missing really bad. I had no power. I thought it was
something electrical. I tried putting on a new igniter and coil, new
plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, but that didn't help. I could pull
the #5 plug wire and it ran the same, so I figured something was up with #5.
I did a compression check, and all cylinders had good compression.
When I went to put the plugs back in, 2 of them stripped out on me.
Add that to the list of repairs.
So the only logical explanation is the fuel injector on #5 wasn't
working. So my plan was to replace the fuel injectors. I bought
a used set off eBay for $40.
I figured while I was getting into the fuel injectors, I might as well do
some other preventative maintenance. I changed the timing belt and
water pump. While I was in there, I noticed the water neck pulley was
loud and had play, so I replaced that. Also drained and flushed the
radiator, replaced the thermostat, and filled it up with Toyota red coolant.
When I took the fuel injectors out, I was surprised to see that the 3 out
of the 6 injectors were partially clogged, and one COMPLETELY clogged.

After seeing all the sediment in the injectors, I realized I'd also have
to replace the fuel filter. And of course, the connections going to
the fuel filter were sized. I figured I would replace the lines going
to and from filter. I disconnected the line running to the engine, but
the line going back to the fuel pump was sized too. So, that means I
had to replace the fuel pump bracket as well. Upon removing the fuel
pump bracket, I broke 4 out of the 6 bolts holding it to the tank. I
ended up just putting a few self tapping screws to hold the bracket in
place, and then used a bunch of RTV to seal everything up. Here's how
the fuel filter looked after cutting it in half. Notice how the paper
element is clogged with sediment, and the nice sludge in the middle.

So after a few hundred dollars in parts, the truck is back up and
running.
Rear Suspension:
A while ago, while changing my oil at the shop, the cheesy AutoZone lift
blocks cracked it half, causing my pinion to tilt up, which ripped the ears
of the yoke off and spit out my drive shafts! After replacing the yoke
and u joint, I set out to find an alternative to the lift blocks. What
I decided on was a Jeep TJ coil spring used as a helper spring, mounted in
between the frame and the ubolt plate. More details to follow, but
here are some pics to look at.
Before/after animation
Side profile
Coil spring temporarily mounted. I'm currently working on a
permanent mounting setup that will capture the coil so it won't fall out
upon articulation.
I took the rig for a test drive, and I have a bad vibration. Come
to find out, the drive shaft is bent! So I'm currently trying to
either get the shaft re-tubbed or get a replacement shaft.
OBA Setup (On Board Air)
I've been planning out and collecting parts for my OBA
setup for my truck. It will consist of (2) MV-50 12v air compressors,
a 3 gallon air tank, 2 tire fillers, and an air horn from a semi truck, with
a pull chain style horn switch. I'm currently tracking down fittings
and hoses, and then I will mount everything up. The horn is around 25
inches long, and will mount to the inside frame rail on the passenger side
near the starter, the tank will be mounted around where the factory spare
tire mount once was, and the compressors will be mounted behind the plastic
panels in the cargo area in the back. Stay tuned for complete details
and pictures. For now, here is a rough sketch of the setup
Click for a larger version

UPDATE..........
I finally got around to doing some work to the OBA. I got the tank
mounted in place. I used some flat stock I used from Lowe's, and bent
it around the tank, and then bent 2 90 degrees in it and ran a bolt through
it. I then attached the 2 brackets to the spare tire carrier, so that
it's tucked up nicely between the body and the spare tire frame. This
wouldn't be possible if I didn't have a 3" body lift. I still need to
bend the tailpipe a little bit because right now it is too close to the tank
and might rattle.
Next up is mounting the air horn. For now, here are some pics of
the tank
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