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Next up are the motor mounts. Welds don't look pretty, but they are strong.






Next is the t-case crossmember. Here's what I'm started with. My stock rubber t-case mount was worn out. Instead of paying $100 for a new stock mount, I used parts of the old mount along with some bushings and tube I had laying around to make some new ones. I got the idea from Jayk's project here on 4x4wire . PICTURE That is of the 4cy mount. The 6cy mount looks a little different, but I think I can make it work.

I mounted the motor and trans up as high as I could since I have a 3" body lift. The new crossmember should give me a good amount of extra ground clearance compared to stock..


The flat piece of steel used for the crossmember was some scrap steel I got from work. I have 2 other pieces just like it. Its almost long enough to go from frame rail to frame rail. I will cut up some of it at an angle and mount it to the rear 2 stock crossmember mounting bolts.






After attempting to mount the new crossmember, I realized I did not have clearance for the front driveshaft output on the transfer case.  I decided to completely re-do the crossmember.  Basically, I flipped it and drilled a few holes for the t-case to mount to. I also cut and welded a drop in it to make room for the driveshaft.  This new design gave me several inches of ground clearance too. 

 

Next I worked on the electricals  First I made up a wiring diagram for the Taurus electric fan.  I have a SPDT switch with center off. With the switch up, it will operate through the thermostat. In the center, the fan will shut off. With the switch down, the fan will be on all the time. The solenoid is a starter solenoid from an old Ford. The fan will be wired up to high speed.  

 

I got all of the wiring ran and sensors installed. Water temp sensor needed a thread adapter, but the oil pressure sender had the same threads, just needed a 90 degree adapter to fit around the intake manifold.




 

Reinstalled the carb after adding some Edelbrock offroad spring loaded needles and seats, adjusting float levels, and blocking off the fuel bowl mixer in the carb. Ran the fuel line and filter, PCV, reinstalled the distributor, and ran the spark plug wires.

Here is a video of the engine firing up for the first time

 

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6998386002276461694&hl=en
 

 

Got the cooling system in and working. I originally planned on running the stock radiator in the stock location, with the Taurus fan mounted in front of the radiator. Somehow it wont fit, so I went with an aluminum radiator from a 1987 Chevy Camaro. It is MUCH wider than stock, but thinner and shorter. This allowed me to mount it on top of the front crossmember and still be able to close the hood. But it also meant extensively hacking the core support. I kind of hurried on the job here, and I really don't like the way it came out. Maybe when I swap to TBI I will also re-do the radiator mounting. But for now it will work fine. The grill will not fit now, so I'm going to have to hack it up to fit it.

Taurus fan cools VERY well on high. Temp gauge stays a little below the middle, just as it did with the stock V6. But as soon as I shut the fan off, it starts creeping up. At idle with the fan off, the its charging at 14.09v. With the fan on high, it drops to 13.5v. This is a 60 amp alternator. I have a 105amp alternator ready to put it.


I still have some little wiring issues. The 12v switched wire that fed the ignition relay isn't giving me any voltage anymore. So I'll have to rewire the relay. No big deal.

I had to cut about 6 inches of sheet metal in the cab to accommodate the transfer case shifter's new location. Fits well though, actually better a little further back than the stock location.





And I drove it for the first time today! Even though the power steering pump isnt working (Must have rebuilt it incorrectly?) I got a custom power steering line made up using the stock Chevy high pressure line on the pump and the stock Toyota high pressure fitting on the box. I did the same with the return line, but just used some 3/8" hose and clamps. I also had my rear drive shaft shortened. It measured 47.5" from flange to flange. I was at 51" before.

Here's a quick video of it running in the drive way.

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&VideoID=45608825

I still have to calibrate the tach. I used some instructions on JayK's page, but it didn't work.

I'll have to pull the PS pump and figure out why its not working.

I need to fine tune the engine. Set the timing, adjust the carb/choke, etc.

Also need to get the trans shifting better. Going to replace the seat bushings first. The white one on the shifter looks OK, haven't looked at the black one in the trans yet. Hope its something simple, nothing internal. Its really hard to get it into first gear, and a little difficult to get into other gears. It has been this way for a long time though.


Still need to get an exhaust built. Its just open headers right now! Every kid I passed in my neighborhood gave me the thumbs up!

 

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